Installation

1. Cover the subfloor with a layer of 15-pound asphalt felt, overlapping seams by about 3 inches. Tack down with a staple gun.

Measure the room's width at two or more points to establish an accurate centerline, and snap a chalk line parallel to your starting wall. Working from the joist marks along the walls, snap chalk
lines to mark the locations of the support members.

2. To indicate the edge of the first row of flooring, snap another chalk line about 1/2 inch from the starting wall exactly parallel to your centerline. This 1/2-inch gap between the flooring and the
wall will allow for expansion; it will be covered by base shoe or baseboard molding.

Laminate's powers of impersonation allow you to get the look and feel of rare, exotic wood with no natural material drawbacks.

3. One of the latest products in the wood flooring market,
imported exotic bamboo flooring has some remarkable qualities. As hard as Hard maple, 50% more stable and harder than Red Oak. Made from grass, not wood, bamboo flooring is a grass
(with more than 1,000 species-worldwide), it rejuvenates itself to maturity within 4 to 5 years, thus being an environmentally friendly product by helping preserve our forest.

4. The finished wear layers of pre-finished hardwood floors are
far superior to any finish that can be applied during the
construction of your new home, or the remodel of your existing home. Factory applied finish coats are more resistant to abrasion, and will not show swirl marks, hairs, dust, and other imperfections often associated with "from scratch" hardwood flooring.

5. When installing the second row and every row thereafter, move a short piece of flooring along the edge and give it a sharp rap with a mallet to tighten the new row against the previous row before nailing.

Remember that end joints in two adjacent rows should not be closer than 6 inches; end joints should also not line up over a joint in the subfloor. If you're installing a wide-plank floor, some manufacturers recommend leaving a crack the width of a putty-knife blade between planks for expansion.

6. If you're installing flooring over a large area, use a flooring nailer once you've installed the first three rows. Slip it onto the board's tongue and, using a heavy rubber mallet, strike the plunger to drive 2-inch nails or staples through the tongue into each joist and into the subfloor midway between joists. Be very careful to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the flooring.

Of Floors 

7. When you reach the final row, use a block and a pry bar to wedge the last boards tightly into position. Drill holes and face-nail boards where base shoe or baseboard molding will cover, using the reference marks along the wall to locate the joists. Set the nailheads below the surface using a hammer and nail set.

8. If your new floor will cause a change of level to a hallway or adjoining room, install a reducer strip for a smooth transition. This strip, milled with a rounded or beveled top, fits onto the tongue of an adjacent board or the ends of perpendicular boards.

It can also be butted against the edges or ends of grooves. Face-nail the reducer strip at the edge of the floor, set the nailheads below the surface, and fill with wood putty. Last, reinstall the base shoe or baseboard molding.